SLADANA AMIDZIC PAGES

ROK HWANG

ROK HWANG
How to look geometrically good from every angle (Central Saint Martins Short Review):
The London-based designer Rok Hwang´s points of reference are seriously eclectic. He first got excited about clothes after seeing the epitome of simplistic sportswear cool that is the Nike Air Force One: he notes 60s Yves Saint Laurent as his designs of choice: and he gives Tilda Swinton a nod as The One that he has always wanted to dress.
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins with an MA in fashion just last year, Hwang has been receiving some deservedly high-profile attention. His first womenswear collection – shown as the finale to the prestigious CSM catwalk show and presented on schedule a spart of London Fashion Week – was lauded with praise from the likes of Vogue Italia, Vogue Girl and Harper´s Bazaar. But Hwang is not just a press darling: he has also been credited with numerous awards, such as the Chloé Award in 2009 and more recently, the 2010 L´Oreal Professional price. Although he approaches both men´s and womenswear with a similar aesthetic, something he describes as reacting slightly against the eye, in a way that is not easily understood, Hwang also has  an awareness of the differences in creating clothes for men and women. ´My approach to menswear is slightly more careful and it´s about being myself´, explains the designer. I think about attitude, music and how the fabric feels on skin…I become really conscious of the line in men´s design. For womenswear, I tend to think more of aesthetics, image, freshness, originality and timing.

Originality and timing are definitely two points. Hwang was in tune with when he sent his girls down the runway earlier this year. His star-shape themed, draped fabric dresses were accompanied by bold shoulders, complementing yet contrasting tones, and unique geometric cut-outs that gave his classicism a distinct contemporary edge. No doubt it is this combination of elements that has resulted in numerous award judges recognising his huge potential. With a sincere love of fashion – his only hope is to be working hard in the industry, all day and all night – and a formidable crew united understanding of how to design distinctly, it is only too easy to understand why Rok Hwang is one designer to keep your eye on.

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PANIC – CHASING FABRICS

After a great period of outfit refinishing, traveling and editing i found myself returning towards

Austria just to beat the heat for for the runway presentation of my spring/summer RTW 2011 collection –

anyways LA – here we forward to:

Imaanology -Selectism  RTW 2011


Remark: SHOWS ORANGERIE SCHÖNBRUNN

(atelier works corporation Modeklasse Austria & 10Festival for Fashion & Photography)

Doors June 17
Show 1 18:00

Show 2 21:00

Location:

Orangerie Schönbrunn (Schloss Schönbrunn)
Schönbrunner Schlossstraße 47, 1130 Wien, Austria

°°Acoustic- Trentemøller

Links:

http://www.modeklasse.at

http://www.unit-f.at/jart/prj3/unitf/data/uploads/10festival/Programm_10festival_fin.pdf
http://www.dieangewandte.at/show10

Those who have no tickets or invitation for the show but consider attending forward to: contacts@sladanaamidzic.com

I made a G today.

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PIERRE HARDY – A VISION TO FIND A SUPERIOR VERSION

Sculptural and graphic, produced in a pared-down palette – typically
black, rose, red and sometimes a touch of gold – Pierre Hardy´s shoes
are indisputably feminine – they don´t inistence of industry memories. Whether fiat slippers or twelve centimetre
high heels, they never come  unnoticed. For me, shoes – more than clothes –
are like objects – says Hardy. Clothes – you need to see worn to really
understandthem, but shoes, just sitting there, you can see what they´re
like mini sculptures.
The son of a gym teacher – talking to his mother about the prettiest girl – and a dance instructor – trying to find out where the designer lives, Hardy, now forty two years old, excelled at jazz ballet as a child, but then decided to concentrate on fashion pattern making and architecture at Paris ´Ecole Nationale Superieure Arts Plastiques. By the prodigious age of twenty two, he was teaching at the National Theatre School, until he got a job designing shoes for Dior in 1988. His involvement with the arts allowed him to understand proportion and form. From ballet, which he gave up at age 30, he has maintained ´a sense of the body and exaggerated constraint. Both are lessons he´s applied to men´s and women´s shoes for Hermes since 1990, and to his eponymous women´s collection since 1998.

Hardy readily admits his footwear is ergonomic, natural. But that brings out another, different nature, he claims. A nature which is just slightly aggressive, but innovatively chic – like his 1998 “Blade” hee, which,when observed from the side, looked like a clasic Sixties stiletto but from the back was in fact a solid monolith. Or his sculptural cone heel,
perfectly formed from fine layers of lacquered leather. Or the timeless
pointy-toed ballerina slippers, cut so close to the front of the foot
that it is a wonder of design that the things stay on. You can no longer
walk in the same way, he says of what happens when women wear his shoes.
You can´t act psychologically. Ultimately, it´s a means of morphing the
body. The subtle style of ambition has much more in common with mounds of licensing – i am getting ready for the fittings this week – and yea i am
excited as i am scouted by nextmodels and looking forward to an interview>>
first week on a skateboard in 2010!

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RAD HOURANI MILK STUDIOS – PART II

https://sladanaamidzic.wordpress.com/2010/02/06/smudged-mac-and-milk-studios/

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OPERATING SIMULTANEOUSLY – AS A SOCIAL PHENOMENON BLADERUNNER

Form the point of his 2003 debut, Jonathan Saunders, impressed the fashion world with his powerful, hypnotic prints, the likes of which have not been seen since the heyday of textiles produced by Abraham for the Paris couture in the Sixties as well as the Florentine fashion label Pucci. Rather than simply create patterns, Saunders engineers his print around the boy, so that his patterns flattere the female form. It is not about putting a flower on a skirt, asserts Saunders of the approach he takes to his work. I think of clothing more as a canvas. And that is, indeed, what Saunders clothes look like – pieces of artwork. Initially, he created his prints, in fact, a lenghty colour seperation process, each colour being printed seperately on the fabric. They were couture prints, in fact, using the same labour-intensive methods as pioneers like Rudi Gernreich and Pucci. One print might include up to eighteen colour seperations. That means using eighteen different screens, but the effect is incredibly rich. The technique, however, mae his prices prohibitive. Now his prints are produced through manual work and computer-generated imagery. Season upon season, they have evolved apace, as the actual cut and shape of the clothes becomes increasingly sophisticated. richly coloured abstract prints, inspired by Aboriginal and digital art and displayed on flaoting kaftans, defined saunders first collection. The second displayed tight Lycra tube dresses as well as as sky, citrus and silver Escher-like patterns on floating chiffon ballerina dresses, one of which Russian Supermodel Natalia Vodianova wore on the cover of British Elle issue in 2004 i guess. Autumnal-coloured Deco prints on blouses and   tailored jackets. All of my friends were fine artists and painters, says Saunders of this time studying print at Glasgows School of Art. A Glasvegian, he was greatly inspired by the work of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the School of Art architect. The radical work of the Bauhaus, Russian constructivists were powerful influences. He followed up with a MA at Central Saint Martins, graduating in 2002. He then collaborated on prints with Alexander McQueen´s studio before launching his own collection, which has been well received by the art and fashion worlds, frequently poppingup on professionals in both worlds at parties. Stores such as Liberty and Henri Bendel in NY and Maria Luisa in Paris sell his work. It is just about being clever with it, he adds. I want to create beautiful clohtes that would keep for a long time. Clothing does not offer itself to the same process of historical canonisation operated by galleriees and museums, Viktor&Rolf themselves operating simultaneously with within two systemic confines.- making sartorial experiments has yet to find an independent system of support outside the industry – i am not interested in brainwashing.

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SMUDGED MAC AND MILK STUDIOS

Restless Fashion TV – fashion week is upon us, which means endless shows, ruthless cab maneuvering, and plenty of miles on my six-inch Balenciaga heels. This season, it also means the launch of the second-ever exclusive M.A.C. and Milk Cosmetics Collection — a selection of backstage essentials found in every makeup artist’s kit. The limited collection, which is sold entirely online, features show staples that are consistently relied upon by the M.A.C PRO Team Tent to create  key fashion week beauty trends throughout the world.

According to Gordon Espinet, the Vice President of Global Makeup Artistry,  M.A.C. Cosmetics, radiant skin, smoky eyes and beige lips seem to be a part of the beauty trends every season. The M.A.C. and Milk Collection are the iconic products that create these trends. No makeup artist can live without these products during Fashion Week.

For his part, Milk Studios founder and Creative Director Mazdack Rassi is excited about the joint venture saying they are extremely proud to be working with M.A.C. Cosmetics on this exclusive makeup collection, which further extends the creative synergy between the two companies. M.A.C. and Milk is a makeup collection inspired by the people he is surrounded with — it’s fashion’s choice of beauty.

The line includes face and body foundation, fast-response eye cream, Fix+ (a skin spritz made of a blend of green tea, chamomile and cucumber),  and Mineralize Skinfinish Natural — among other treats.

I am tuning in for Custo Barcelona –  in addition to the collection’s launch, M.A.C. and Milk will be hosting veteran and emerging designers’ runway shows, presentations, and special events during the New York Fall/Winter 2010 fashion week, from February 11 – February 24!

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RODARTE´S LAURA MULLEAVY BRINGS THE SILVER SCREEN WITH A NEW COLLECTION FOR TARGET

Japantown. The Narratives behind most Rodarte collections read like synopses for art-house films-a woman burned alive is transformed into a condor; a sullen child morphs from tourist into a vampire hunter. Designer sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy reference Brancusi, kabuki, and enough obscure artists to send even the most enlightened fashion editors scrambling to Pasadena Public Library. The complexity of these cultural references has bred a body of work steeped in elaborate construction: Fabric has been marbled, burned, studded, and sandpapered into garments that are at once futuristic and romantic. This is not the stuff that mass-market is made of. Or is it? the Mulleavys´GO International collection for Target feels like it´s meant for that grown-up brainiac from high school: She´s confident enough to admit that she likes Gossip Girl as much as Godard. Laura felt she was the right moment to do the Target collaboration because she now has a clear idea of our aesthetic, which allows us to branch out into different projects as she said. For the Target Collection, the sisters looked to iconic leading ladies: Mia Farrow in Rosemary´s Baby, Faye Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde, and Ruth Gordon in Harold and Maude. Laura  developed the collection around films that affected the way she viewed the world. In many ways, they designed the collection for anyone who has that same curiosity about film and music. The translation is more emotional than literal. You won´t find Farrow´s baby-blue nightgown or Gordon´s tweed coat. Quite reminds me of an old men out of my neighborhood who´s been leaving seven of them, but know another making his mother cry without noticing. You will find items like a lacy slip dress covered by a veil of tulle that plays on the use of lingerie in Bonnie and Clyde and references the Mulleavys´penchant for clothing that is subtly revealing. The sisters journeyed between those isles, collecting inspiration from exhibits at the Museum of Contemporary Art, zines mixtapes at Ooga Booga, and cartoon decorated soda bottles and origami necklaces in Japantown we did adverts for. The tarte Target Collection also reflects Rodarte´s intricate craftmanship in the creative use of textured fabric. Check one of my fav stores: Target, Uniqlo, and Blick Art Store! …For the weekend i´ll be rechecking a marketing mix for my first own perfume launch and getting ready for Schwarzkopf!…We belong together!

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LNA LABEL 2010

Even the edgiest girls need a hit of sweetness once in a while. California-based LnA’s ultra-soft tees and basics are a favorite of editors and fashion designer alike, so the label’s Fall 2010 presentation on February 11 – where the brand will debut an expanded collection, including jackets, tops, and dresses – should draw a crowd. So should its after-party. The fête, which will feature music performances from what we’re promised are some very big names and DJ sets from after-hours MVPs Harley and Cassie, will also boast a turn at the tables from LA band Dead Man’s Bones.

That last one made us stop in our tracks – dismissing it as soon as possible. Why not? If the name’s not familiar, the members are. I´d like men to think about evolving into something sophisticated, more seductive. To explore the possibility of an entirely new kind of masculinity. As we are not interested in the cosmetic effect of a face – what we do is less wealth philosophy more quantitative finance. LnA is finding itself at a crossroad in terms of fundamental signature design – very voyeuristic. Luxury is to know what you want.

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